Jean Paul Gaultier (the man) may have stepped down in
2020, but Jean Paul Gaultier (the House) continues to cast
an irreverent eye over the runway. For spring 2021, the label’s creative crew revisits the myth of the Sailor so dear to the fashion world’s Enfant Terrible, through the resurrection of his ready-to-wear collections, on standby since 2015. A unisex, inclusive, collaborative collection that perspires a misty sea air.
Ciao Bella (Hadid)! A campaign that makes waves with Gaultier. For this first drop, Jean Paul Gaultier chose Bella Hadid to embody the mermaid dear to its mythology. The porthole camera of New York photographer and videographer Charlotte Wales captures the secret songs of the muse and the sailors.
Unveiled as a summer drop as opposed to an “RTW collection” that would have had to rely on the retail calendar, this new ready-to-wear line will be released for LGBTQI+ Pride Month. Freed from any and all constraints, the House’s creation studio has reinterpreted all the codes beloved by Jean Paul Gaultier. First off: is the marinière, a garment deeply embedded in the designer’s DNA, forming the point xyz of the collection. This garment, indissociable from the designer who has so often made it a part of his attire, has now been replicated by the House. It is found here in its “plain” oversized version as well as in its numerous variations. Torn, distorted, distressed and transcended, the sailor-boy stripes take on a salacious, hypersexualised connotation for 2021. The design pays homage to the fantasy figure of the Sailor in Rainer W. Fassbinder’s cult erotic film, Querelle (1982), who served as the muse for Gaultier’s men’s collections and his iconic fragrance, Le Male.
A salt-flecked, maritime vibe thus penetrates right through the summer months. The iconic sailor’s hat, inspired by those traditionally worn by the US Navy, is now embroidered with an imposing “Jean Paul Gaultier” signature. Stretched out, the marinière stripes twist sensually over the body. Patently pop, the all-over print of the “Pierre & Gilles” t-shirt features an iconic portrait of the bleach-blond designer, as shot in 1990. Outrageously transparent, the top all stitched in mesh (what else?) may be worn over a bare torso or layered with other garments. Printed in trompe-l’œil style, the sailor’s trousers are unbuttoned at the back to expose the bottom. As for the “Graffiti” print created by the studio, it displays a myriad of suggestive slogans, scrawled in a hurry and drawing on references to queer and punk subcultures, with such gems as “Gode Save The Gouine” (“Dildo Save the Dyke”), “Safe Sex 4 Life” and “Moule Sentimentale” (“Sentimental Snatch”).
In an ode to collective action and tribute to the diverse communities that have inspired the House since its creation, the Jean Paul Gaultier studio invited five designers and trend- setters to participate in this rebirth of ready-to- wear. Five designers who embody the values of freedom, acceptance and unscrupulous creativity.
Nix Lecourt Mansion, Ottolinger, Palomo Spain, Alan Crocetti and Marvin M’Toumo have each produced a silhouette or accessory range that they feel represents the genius of Gaultier. From Lecourt Mansion’s black rhinestone mesh bodysuit with its form- exalting stripes, to Palomo Spain’s unique floral corset, Ottolinger’s distorted zebra zigzags, Alan Crocetti’s conical bra-shaped jewellery and Marvin M’Toumo’s “shell and crustacean” accessories, every aspect of Gaultier culture has been revamped. Forming a cheeky pair, like a seductive 69, the artists’ logos are laid on top of the Jean Paul Gaultier insignia, emblazoned on labels, brushing upon the neck and against the skin. An act of artistic equity
FILM DIRECTOR Charlotte Wales
CREATIVE DIRECTION Florence Tétier
STYLING Georgia Pendlebury
ASSISTED BY Nelly Carle & Charlotte Buchal HAIR Yann Turchi
ASSISTED BY Nelson Douala
MAKE UP Cecile Paravina
MANICURE Lili Creuk
3D NAILS Rohan Mirza
CASTING Suun Consultancy MUSIC Andrew Mc Donnell
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Pat Aldinger FILM PRODUCTION Colors
POST PRODUCTION Everest
EDITORS Basile Belkhiri & Alexandre André
COLORIST Gabriel Porier
VFX Florent Canale & Olivier Guedj
POST PRODUCER Kim Phoung
credit: Nicolas Coulomb @nicolascoulomb