FERRARI - FALL/WINTER 2022-23 - THE COLLECTION

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Ferrari presents its Fall/Winter 2022-23 collection with a co-ed Women and Men’s runway as part of the Milan Fashion Week calendar. Designed by Creative Director Rocco Iannone, this collection of clothes and accessories takes the personalities and passions of the women and men playing leading roles in today’s changing aesthetics, society and culture and transforms them into everyday attitudes of daywear and evening wear. The garment silhouettes are slim yet not minimal and see tailoring and natural materials teamed with the latest technological research. A collection of dresses, coats, jackets, trousers, shirts, knitwear, and accessories designed and studied to contaminate occasions of wear and to transcend the boundaries until now assigned to the female and male wardrobe.

THE INSPIRATION

In the words of Creative Director Rocco Iannone: „Ferrari is a system in which aesthetic research is never separated from the ethics expressed in its history and it is also the synthesis of that Italian ability to transform creativity into a project. This was my starting point for telling the story of speed, one of our Brand’s codes but also an expression of the innovation required by the ongoing changes in society. This gave rise to the narrative connections between speed and technology, light and surface, the idea of the future and its inevitable realisation that runs through the entire collection, which, in this way, owns a design method using hybridisation of materials and shapes. But it also enhances contamination as a factor that, by opening up to diversity, sets evolutionary processes in motion. I expressed this concept in a feminine and masculine silhouette with clean- cut lines, a fusion of tailoring techniques and noble materials with technological touches.”

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THE GARMENTS

The jackets and coats are cut and sewn using the tailoring technique, with the effects of the stitching inside moved to the outside. They have contoured shoulders, evident but never overly padded, defined by stitching and flat- felled seams. The cut and tailoring do not affect fit, which expresses a new confidence with the female and male body. The skirts are pencil shape, often with adjustable metal-zippered slits. Or they start out snug around the hips, flaring out towards the hem. The little black dress comes in new materials, such as leather treated with unprecedented finishes that affect shapes and some volumes that increase towards the hem. Trousers have darts and taper towards the ankle to express, like all the other garments, an idea of daywear as a new combination of garments no longer restricted to the categories of formal or casual. As do leggings and also knitwear with decidedly oversized jumpers and sweatshirts that embrace the more body hugging proportions typical of leisurewear. In cashmere, leather or shearling, coats often feature zip details. Bomber jackets and cabans feature layers in different materials: nylon, leather and cotton drill. Soft loose- fitting shirts, leather puffer jackets, hooded sweatshirts, and full skirts that drape softly as they indulge in the lightness of silk.

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THE EFFECTS

The cargo trousers are coated with black crystals, the shearling has a shiny outer layer thanks to a heat-sealed film and that picks up on the colours visible on the inside. A camo print has been obtained by breaking down the silhouette of the Prancing Horse, its parts then enlarged and coloured; other graphic prints derive from thermal scanner grids and an abstract motif comes from a hologram of the logo and an enlarged photo of technical filaments. Suits and jackets in carbon fibre and iridescent-looking tailored suits in metallic fabrics. Lots of shiny effects thanks to jacquard weaving of a glow-in-the-dark yarn that shines in the absence of light, fuelling the aspects of technological derivation applied to natural materials.

THE MATERIALS

Following the rules that Ferrari has set itself, quite independently and with the necessary attention to sustainability, all the materials used in the collection meet the criteria of environmentally and socially sustainable fashion. Hence the decision to use only organic cotton and GRS-certified recycled nylon, as well as Ecodown padding inside the jackets, a material obtained from recycled plastic bottles. In particular, this collection uses noble and natural fabrics such as wool, cashmere, cotton drill, silk, and leather (the latter also of certified origin and derived from food waste), which have then been given technological treatments: leather is thermoformed, cotton drill is enriched with a waterproof technical fibre, and brass is galvanised. Nylon becomes reflective.

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THE COLOURS

The colours start with a symphony of blacks that then lead to lighter and brighter tones such as a bold yellow, a deliberately dramatic red and other colour combos with shades that start with mixed shades such as green. A deliberately variable palette that also includes the neutrality of grey and beige.

THE ACCESSORIES

These are an integral part of an aesthetic vision and fashion choice. Bags: small, rigid and shiny like satin-finished coloured metals, or colourful printed shopping bags. Footwear: on low or high heels, boots and lace-ups as well as sneakers. Long belts help to shape and modify looks according to personal moods and needs.

Bijoux come in galvanised brass with aerodynamic shapes: necklaces and bracelets, pendants and Prancing Horses in gold hanging from thin chains. Glasses have large mask-shaped lenses and cover the entire eye area thanks to a system of small metal clips that attach other small lenses to the rounded corners of the main lens; the thin metal frame is thin sinuously shaped on both the front and side temples.