The essence of the Brioni spirit, the ultimate lightness on tailoring that lets clothes become one with the body and personality of the wearer, is kept by the hands that make the garments, and the unique knowledge they carry, passed from one generation of artisans to the other in a seamless flow that happens in the House ateliers.
This season, hints of the Brioni workshops, including sketches, fabric samples and a tapestry work from the in-house Arazzeria Pennese (Penne tapestry), take space in the Circolo Filologico Milanese. This intellectual haven, a beacon of knowledge and cultural exploration across time, mirrors the craftsmanship of Brioni. Just like philology allows scholars to connect with the past in order to think in the present, so the Brioni art of tailoring, expressed in a spatial experience that makes the creative work tangible, is presented as a vessel of modernity crafted around traditional instruments and tools. In a space usually dedicated to the philological culture, the non bookish culture of the House craftsmanship discovers its natural habitat, a realm for research, self-expression, and aesthetic sensibility.
The Fall/Winter 2024 collection serves as a further expression of Brioni’s foundational principles – weightlessness, ease and precision, exploring an expansive territory of new categories in which sportswear gets a tailored aplomb, while tailoring becomes lighter and easier. Following a chromatic excursus along earthy shades of vicuña, camel, coffee brown, midnight blue and desaturated notes of black with accents of white and ice, the offer comprises welcoming coats and blazers, fluid trench coats, jackets with leather detailing, lightweight duvets. Trousers have fuller volumes while knitwear allows further ease, freeing movements. Field jackets, blousons, and anoraks nod at leisurewear and sports, in a composed way. The concept of lightness carries from clothing to accessories such as supple trainers and generous, deconstructed totes and briefcases.
As night descends, the Brioni man immerses himself in a Venetian-inspired palette reminiscent of Mariano Fortuny’s artistry. The allure of the evening unfolds through dinner jackets, tuxedos, and the lustrous sophistication of Arlequin intarsia. A timeless touch is added as the signature Brioni herringbone fabric, a constant in Brioni collections, is elevated to Couture in a silk jacket intricately embroidered with glass beads. Opulent fabrics, handled with a delicate touch, embody a concept of stylish elegance, effortless and sophisticated in perfect harmony.
La Donna keeps expanding along the same lines, riffing on juxtapositions of the masculine and the feminine. Trousers and shirts, coats and dinner jackets evolve directly from the tailoring wardrobe.
Ultimately, the hands are the thread that keeps it all together: hands that touch, hands that make, hands that know, hands that wear.