Life is a stage, but dressing the part should be a matter of subtlety and intimacy, rather than an affair of show off and loudness: this is the Brioni thought. Season after season, year after year, what stays is the soft take on tailoring and garment construction for which the Maison stands for, and with that the idea of conveying perfection and preciousness through uttermost ease, ultimately allowing the wearer to shine through, not the item he is wearing. Which, in fact, is a perfect definition of balance. The same balance is to be found in the Brioni process, which is based on the generosity of the time it takes to research for the best materials and to bring a piece to life: the finest handwork, so effective and subtle it becomes visible only to those who know, granting for private joy and intimate pleasure.
Hailing for Rome but roaming the world, Brioni connects the depth and the gravitas of history with the swiftness and the moods of the moment, the past with the present. As a Maison that travels through time and people, Brioni allows travel, both real and symbolic, to enter its mindset and mold the output, gaining further calm, more softness and swiftness. The Fall/Winter 2023 collection is a path through the now, charged with the awareness of history, introduced as a journey that starts under a classic Italian loggia and leads to a hidden underground space through a brutalist concrete staircase. The collection renders the idea of the theater of life in the form of a square: the quintessential stage of Italian social life, a crossroad of experiences and styles.
The idea of travel translates into movement and fluidity, in garments that accompany body and gestures. Jackets are longer, trousers are fuller, shoulders are defined yet light: the Brioni penchant for soft tailoring is further enlivened, translating into pieces suited for different occasions, marrying effortlessness and aplomb. Wellbeing is explored as a holistic feeling that stems from the shape, carries over in the texture to finally give a reassurance that’s ultimately comfort for the mind.
Clothes for real moments and experiences, meant to be relevant today as well as tomorrow: tailored blazers, coats, field jackets and anoraks; denim shirts and trousers; knitted underpinnings. Leather adds depth and texture: shearling coats, calf blouson, blazers cut in crocodile culled and recycled from the Brioni archives. At night, a touch of shiny luster: shawl-collared dinner jackets in silk moirè, peak-lapel smoking jackets in handwoven jacquard with velvet intarsia. To round it all off, sturdy accessories such as boots, leather backpacks and totes. The color palette is strong on black and almost blacks, on creams and naturals, with errant accents of turquoise and tobacco. It’s a very Roman, Caravaggio-eque way to deal with color: a chiaroscuro of sorts, brought to tactile heights by the choice of the finest wools, silks, leathers and velvets.
A smattering of exquisitely tailored outfits offers the same sartorial suppleness to women. Blazers, trench coats, car coats, capes, as well as shirts and dinner jackets evolve directly from the men’s wardrobe, culling the same fabrics yet playing with a grace and a flow that are exquisitely feminine. Shirts are elongated; the white smoking jackets turns into coat; a long skirt with satin details offers a new interpretation of dinner attire.
Entering the circle of life in the subtlest of ways, Brioni allows individuals to be themselves, in inner and outer balance.