IWC Schaffhausen presents the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph. This masterpiece of haute horlogerie, limited to 100 pieces, combines a flying minute tourbillon with a retrograde date display and a chronograph with a flyback function. The 43.5-millimeter case is crafted from 18-carat Armor Gold®, a material with significantly higher hardness than conventional gold alloys. The obsidian-colored dial is produced using a complex process that includes the application of 15 layers of clear varnish. The IWC-manufactured caliber 89900, with its solid gold rotor, can be seen through the sapphire-crystal case back.
In 2024, IWC Schaffhausen introduced new design codes for the Portugieser collection. These included a series of new signature colors—Horizon Blue, Dune, Obsidian, and Silver Moon—reflecting the eternal cycle of day and night and the relentless flow of time. Now, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer is introducing a new model with three complications featuring an obsidian dial.
Limited to 100 pieces, the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph (Ref. IW394009) features a case, pushers, and crown artfully crafted from 18-carat Armor Gold®. Thanks to an improved microstructure, this material boasts significantly higher hardness values than conventional gold alloys. The obsidian-colored dial is produced using a complex process comprising 60 individual steps. Fifteen layers of clear varnish give it exceptional optical depth and an almost three-dimensional effect. Gold-plated hands and solid gold appliqués complete the dial design. The watch is fitted with a black alligator leather strap from Italian leather manufacturer Santoni, secured with an 18-karat Armor Gold® folding clasp.
The tourbillon is one of the most spectacular complications in haute horlogerie, both due to its complex construction and its captivating appearance. In this sophisticated mechanism, the lever and escape wheel are housed in a small cage that rotates on their own axis once per minute. This constant rotation reduces the influence of gravity on the watch’s oscillation system, thus contributing to greater accuracy. The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock weighs just 0.675 grams and consists of 56 individual parts. Thanks to the integrated tourbillon stop, it can be brought to a complete stop and the time can be set to the second. The lever and escape wheel are made of silicon and coated with Diamond Shell® technology developed by IWC. This special coating reduces friction and improves the flow of energy in the movement, contributing to the generous 68-hour power reserve.
In addition to the flying minute tourbillon, the Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph also features a retrograde date display located at 9 o’clock. A small hand indicates the current date on an arc-shaped scale from 1 to 31. When the end of the month is reached, the hand returns to its starting position. The third complication is the flyback chronograph, which displays the stopped hours and minutes combined on a totalizer at 12 o’clock. The flyback chronograph allows for a lightning-fast restart of the chronograph function while it is running. Pressing the chronograph push-piece resets the chronograph hands to zero and immediately starts a new time measurement.
The Portugieser Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph is powered by the IWC-manufactured caliber 89900, a highly complex automatic movement with a total of 375 individual parts. The movement, elaborately finished with Côtes de Genève and perlage, can be viewed through the sapphire crystal case back. The rotor of the automatic winding movement is made of solid gold.
