Amidst the scent of summer blossoms and the rustling wind above Berlin’s rooftops, designer Marie-Louise Müller—along with her eponymous brand, MARIE-LOUISE MÜLLER—celebrated her runway debut at Berlin Fashion Week on Sunday afternoon. The Berlin-based slow-fashion couture label presented „Escapist Garden,“ a Spring/Summer collection rooted in personal memory, dedication to craftsmanship, and the quiet magic of a place where time stands still. Held in the urban garden of the Lobe Block, the show offered guests a panoramic view of the entire city.
Escapist Garden
For Marie-Louise Müller, the garden has always been a sanctuary and a source of inspiration. „I lie in the grass there, with the whole afternoon stretching out before me. An insect lands on my hand, and I let it stay. Nothing is demanded of me there. […] It is a place I go to let garments come to life,“ the designer explains.
Her SS27 collection, „Escapist Garden,“ came to life in precisely that setting; it is shaped by places beyond the realm of fashion—by the intimate spaces of childhood, the feel of grass beneath bare feet, the creaking of an apple tree, and the soft landing of an insect on an open palm. It is a collection that was not merely designed, but allowed to grow. The garden that inspired Marie-Louise Müller’s unique creations predates the collection itself. It embodies memories of childhood summers spent barefoot until the soles of one’s feet turned green—a garden that, in the height of summer, gave back far more than was ever asked of it: blossoms and colors, birds and insects, and fruit upon the bushes and trees. Around 20 looks, created through approximately 2,500 hours of pure handwork, were presented at the fashion show: featuring embroidery, crochet, hand-sewing, and upcycled elements made exclusively from natural fibers. The color palette begins with beige and creamy white, drawing every subsequent shade directly from nature: the green of grass and treetops, the yellow of the sun, blossoms ranging from soft pink to raspberry red, and the blue of water and sky. Embroidered insects make their way across the garments—just as they traverse any garden.
Four standout pieces embody the garden in full bloom.
„The Flower Dress“ is a corset-style gown that doubles as a wearable flowerbed. Every single blossom was hand-crocheted and meticulously hand-stitched onto the light-colored fabric. The waist is accentuated before the skirt flares out into a voluminous, sweeping silhouette.
„The Weeping Willow“ is the collection’s heaviest garment. More than 800 beaded fringes cascade from the neckline, incorporating a total of 70,000 glass beads. The weeping willow was the designer’s favorite tree during her childhood. Last summer, while at a photoshoot, she spotted two old willow trees that inspired this unique piece. It is her way of giving something back to the trees.
„The Cabbage Dress“ is modeled after a single head of cabbage. The crocheted leaves were graduated by size, draped directly onto the body, and stitched by hand. Cut to a short length, the dress highlights the legs. Cabbage grew in the very first garden Marie-Louise Müller knew; she hopes it will also grow in every garden yet to come.
„The Beetle Dress“ is crafted from blue silk. Two glass-bead beetles face each other at chest height, their antennae touching like clasped hands. Deliberately oversized, they catch the light. Insects are easily overlooked, yet—according to Marie-Louise Müller—they are the heartbeat of a garden.
Arrive. Pause. Remember.
The reception in the Urban Garden at Lobe Block gave guests—even before the show began—that special sensation of stepping into a different place, one apart from our everyday world. It was a setting that radiated calm and peace, inviting everyone to consciously take in the colors, sounds, and scents of nature. With the subsequent rooftop show overlooking the city, Marie-Louise Müller took guests on a fashion-led journey to the garden of her childhood, sharing that unique sense of lightness and carefreeness. It was a kind of retreat into a garden oasis defined by childhood memories and a feeling of comfort and security.
Voices with a Vision
The guest list included figures from the worlds of fashion, art, and culture who actively shape the Berlin zeitgeist. Among them were representatives from the Fashion Council Germany, as well as editors and creatives who have long been fixtures of the Berlin fashion scene. Many were deeply moved by the precision of the craftsmanship, the emotional resonance of the pieces, and the effortless way the collection translated memories into clothing.
Marie-Louise Müller’s debut at Berlin Fashion Week marks more than just the next step—it is an invitation: an invitation to a garden where one can linger and dream. Sponsoring partners Martini and Little Moons rounded off the summery atmosphere with chilled drinks and delicious mochi.
Credits: Boris Marberg for BFW
