Time to move on and show some sensitive content.
Sensitive as personal, deeply felt, autobiographic.
Palm Angels moves to further grounds, as Francesco Ragazzi summarizes his own story through chapters that mix but not necessarily match. A foray into personal passions and obsession shapes the collection.
The spirit is consistent: tropes taken from different cultures and their dress codes are clashed into non codified mixtures, creating biased iconographies.
This season, the sartorial takes the lead, as the properness of formality becomes the vehicle for a take on rebellion that’s considered as opposed to loud, and assertive.
It’s sartorial charged with a definite subcultural aura: the solaro two-tone fabric, zippered closures, boxy jackets and stovepipe trousers, as well as the frilly blouses are redolent of the Sixties. This clean language is constantly distorted with insertions hinting to the worlds of fishing & hunting and skiing: multi-purpose vests with mesh pockets, tool belts, articulated trousers. Sartorial and sportswear merge as prints and patterns progress from hunting camo motifs and acid tie-dye prints to ransom lettering to equestrian scenes worth a very bourgeois foulard. The brass buttons, pinstripe shirting and air of pomp and circumstance are just as bourgeois, but the whole balance is definitely not. Marilyn Manson wanders about.
Off kilter formality comes to the fore as the ultimate sensitive content.