„The Leisure Suit, popular in 1970’s mail order catalogs, was designed to be worn for every occasion, be it business or the disco.“
For Spring/Summer ’19, the collection began by researching mainstream American trends of the 70’s, a decade influenced by mail order fashion and what the marketers were selling, an era exemplified by the Leisure Suit.
An exploration of Americana in the 70’s naturally began to parallel with the work of Andy Warhol, particularly his experimental films created with Paul Morrissey. Warhol’s films were a depiction of the generations youth, shown through his on-screen frontman, Joe Dallesandro. The actor embodied this rebelliousness and counter culture that the filmmakers derived their inspiration from, a feeling that was also tapped into for SS19.
The collection blends this straight forward, non-pretentious, utilitarian way of dress with the kitsch American dress codes of the time. Grungy check patterns are mixed with classic patterns, as the contrasting fabrics are used both in boxy suiting, cropped jackets and oversized coats. The color palette also combines these inspirations, bringing both into several looks, styling muted and vintage colors together with rich, vibrant blues, reds and yellows. A combination of classic and eccentric are explored as the rebelliousness that Warhol depicted was combined with the mainstream of the 70’s.
Construction and fabric quality are of the utmost importance as well. Fabric qualities range in weight and composition from shirting in light 100% Tencil and fresh Gysa Egyptian Cotton polo shirts to structured Italian Virgin Wool suiting and cropped Leather jackets. Versatile dressing, an idea derived from the Leisure Suit, was an important factor when developing the collection, creating garments that can be worn from 9-5 and carry over into the night.